Distance: 9.8 miles
We ended up starting the day on a blue trail due to
our planned route being closed. There were indeed some
tricky spots but, overall, it was not the trek's most
challenging (or precarious) section.
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Cabane de Prafleuri was my least favorite
of the huts due to the accommodation and food, but I still
recommend you stay here if you ever find yourself in Parflueri after a
long hike!
Next Day: http://callihan-haute-route-2012.blogspot.com/p/july-21-cabane-de-prafleuri-to.html
Ascent: 4,200 ft
Descent: 3,500 ft
Passes:
Col de la Chaux: 9,646 ft
Col de Louvie: 9,583 ft
Col du Prafleuri: 8,609 ft
This was the day that the books and
maps indicated the hike would become more serious -- more remote, higher, with
more difficult terrain and with "exit" routes fewer and far between. Today and tomorrow were supposed to be the hike's two most difficult days. Today's hike would involve crossing
three high passes and traversing "the grand desert" - a vast high
glacial desert of starkness, and we expected to encounter snow in the
higher evaluations.
We slept the night before
at 8,000+ feet, which was significantly higher than we had slept so far this
trip. Consequently, we did not sleep so well. In addition, upon
reaching Cabane du Mont Fort, we learned that our planned route had been closed
due to an avalanche that happened two days previously. (The alps are steep
and unstable and these events seem fairly common, although the avalanches
generally happen earlier in the summer when the ice that thaws thaws).
The closed route required us to use
an alternative "blue" alpine route, which went via the Col de la
Chaux (9,600 ft). The problem was not with the pass' height, but rather it
was said that trail markings were poor, the upper reaches of the pass had
substantial portions of tricky boulder and scree fields, there was a lot of bad footing, and it would be easy to get lost. Luckily, we
were able to tag along with a three-person guided group that day (thanks
Hashmut!). In the end, the blue trail didn't seem much worse
than what we passed many other days, but maybe this was because we followed a
guide and also because we were fortunate with the weather. I imagine this
could have been quite a difficult route in bad weather.
In any event, the Col de la
Chaux was just the first of the day's three passes. The day ended up being
spectacular and both Michael and I enjoyed it immensely. It was wonderful
to finally be in the high alps -- there was a lot of pristine starkness from glacial
avalanches, lots of snow fields, and fantastic views of high peaks
throughout the day. We both found the day to be a real pleasure --
perhaps because we were gaining strength, and were getting used to the
altitude, the steep climbs, and carrying packs...and certainly because of the crisp air and scenery.
We started the day with a hike above
the clouds from Cabane du Mont Fort. As we left the Cabane the
forecast was for rain throughout the day.
Fortunately, we never got the bad weather, although the day's third
pass was enshrined in clouds most of the day -- enough to keep us
wondering and moving at a brisk pace.
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| Michael covers a little ground as
he glissades down the back side of the pass. |
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| The morning's trail: Michael heads up and over. |
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| The Grand Desert....down, across, and up and over (Col de Louvie). |
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Cabane de Prafleuri, which was reached after an eight hour
plus day of hiking. It had a great location - although, after having already climbed three passes, the last 45 minute climb required to reach its perch was a bit taxing. |
The Cabane's accommodation was a bit cozy, but it was the
only game in town. The room ended up being only about half full so it
wasn't too bad. And, hot water showers were available: two minutes for
five euros. Once your two minutes runs out the hot water ceases and you
get out real quick; glacier water tends to be a bit cold for showering.
The huts will not turn away hikers even if they have to put people on the floor in the dining area -- or on the floor in the bedrooms! For most of the places where we stayed called ahead a day or two in advance for reservations and we never had a problem getting space, although we might have ended up in dorms more than we otherwise would have had we booked further in advance (some places had shared rooms in addition to dorms, but some didn't).
The huts will not turn away hikers even if they have to put people on the floor in the dining area -- or on the floor in the bedrooms! For most of the places where we stayed called ahead a day or two in advance for reservations and we never had a problem getting space, although we might have ended up in dorms more than we otherwise would have had we booked further in advance (some places had shared rooms in addition to dorms, but some didn't).
Next Day: http://callihan-haute-route-2012.blogspot.com/p/july-21-cabane-de-prafleuri-to.html
